Places have some kind of memory," the late writer WG Sebald once told me, "in that they activate memory in those who look at them. It’s an old notion: this isn’t a good house, because bad things have happened in it."
These words came to mind as I had a preview tour of Beit Beirut (Beirut House), a ruined beauty of a Levantine apartment building, in the Lebanese capital’s Ashrafieh district, that is to become an extraordinary Museum of Memory. A four-storey landmark on the corner of Independence Avenue and Damascus Road, its yellow walls are pitted and pockmarked by bullets and mortars from the civil war of 1975-1990.