By Alex Matthews For Mailonline – ‘It’s like drinking Champagne at the top of a volcano’: Discovering why Lebanon makes for a superb holiday (even though there is chaos all around, as the tour guides admit) ‘Life in Lebanon is like drinking champagne at the top of a volcano… there is chaos all around us but at least we have a good time’. These were the words of wisdom from my tour guide during a long day of sight-seeing in Beirut and after five hectic but enjoyable days in the city, I had to agree – the Lebanese know how to enjoy themselves. Bordering Syria and Israel, but nestled on the Mediterranean coast, Lebanon is a hotbed of culture, history and politics and as soon as I saw the twinkling lights of its capital, Beirut, I knew I was in love.
Lebanon’s capital Beirut is the perfect place in which to enjoy a city break
The ancient city of Byblos (pictured), just along the coast from Beirut, boasts beautiful beaches and a fascinating history
The Phoenicia Hotel is the most exclusive place to stay in Beirut and is an opulent oasis of calm in a frantic, bustling city
Beirut is a city teeming with culture, from the traditional Lebanese art in the Sursock museum to the vibrant graffiti-covered streets of Hamra (pictured)
The Phoenicia is the epitome of luxury with an elegant pool area to soak up Lebanon’s sunny weather or take a quick dip, before enjoying a cocktail at the hotel’s bar
The rooms at the Phoenicia are stylish and comfortable, with many boasting spectacular views of the Mediterranean coastline
Meals at the Phoenicia are a thoroughly enjoyable affair, with an array of restaurants staffed by expert chefs offering international cuisine and delicious traditional Lebanese food
Staff at the Phoenicia pander to the whim of all their guests and by staying at the hotel, reporter Alex Matthews followed in the footsteps of celebrity travellers including popstar Shakira and former Secretary General of the UN, Ban Ki Moon
Staying at the Phoenicia is a luxurious experience, where guests can enjoy five-star treatment during every second of their visit to the Lebanese capital
While narrow streets and ancient architecture offer an insight into Beirut’s past, the yacht-filled marina and stylish sky scrapers of Zaitunay Bay are certainly all about the city’s future If Beirut is a city dominated by hustle and bustle, then the Phoenicia is an opulent oasis of calm. By checking-in I joined a list of celebrity guests, including popstar Shakira and former Secretary General of the UN Ban Ki Moon, and during every second of my stay I received nothing but the A-list treatment. The Phoenicia is a truly spectacular hotel, with modern art draping from the walls, a luxurious spa, an array of restaurants to cater to any palette and staff who happily pander to the every whim of their guests. The hotel suggested a tour company that set up excursions around Beirut and into the countryside where I could see for myself the true beauty of Lebanon. I jumped at the chance and I urge you to do the same. I was picked up by minibus and shown around the city by my fantastic tour-guide, Nouchka, along with a group of fellow wide-eyed tourists.
Beirut is packed with stores, from designer labels to high street brands, and the city’s handsome Souks offer tourists the opportunity to shop until they drop
Perched on a steep mountainside, the enchanting palace of Beiteddine is split across three main courtyards, with an impressive collection of beautiful Byzantine mosaics and luxuriously decorated and domed hammams (bathhouses)
The palace of Beiteddine is about an hour outside of Beirut and is well worth the trip, with ornate stained glass windows, opulent furnishings and beguiling examples of 19th-century Lebanese architecture I gazed at the impressive Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque in Martyr’s Square before visiting the National Museum of Beirut and meandering past the city’s many charming coffee shops and bakeries. I later ventured into the Chouf Mountains before visiting the impressive Beiteddine Palace. Shaped by a plethora of rulers and civilisations over its rich history – not to mention quite a few serious earthquakes – Lebanon is a country steeped in heritage, so any chance you get to learn about its history should be grasped with gusto. Another site worth visiting is the Basilica at Harissa, which is a short drive into the hills. Its unique architecture makes it a place of worship like no other and a cable car up and down the hillside offers great views of the city and the surrounding coastline. I went at night, which made Beirut look all the more magical.
It is hard not to be spellbound by the breathtaking beauty of the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque (left) in Beirut’s Martyr’s Square and the eye-catching architecture of the basilica (right) nestled in the hills at Harissa
Believed to be the oldest populated city in the world – its earliest settlers landed around 8,000 years ago – visiting Byblos is like stepping onto the set of a historical Hollywood epic. However, personally, I felt the historical jewel in Lebanon’s crown was the ancient city of Byblos. Believed to be the oldest populated city in the world – its earliest settlers landed around 8,000 years ago – visiting Byblos is like stepping onto the set of a Hollywood historical epic. Strolling along its narrow cobbled streets, visiting its various ruins or popping into Lebanese restaurants for fattoush, kibbeh and chicken kebabs, is a delightful way to spend a day.
Plus, Byblos boasts sensational beaches. In case you feel like soaking up some rays. Lebanon is a history lover’s dream, but if your idea of a holiday is sun, sea and a dancefloor, well never fear – Beirut has got you covered. Beirut is all about new beginnings and there is a youthful exuberance to the city that is both captivating and contagious. So it is no surprise that when it comes to having fun, they know what they’re doing.
Beirut is the perfect place to dance and drink the night away and the uber trendy district of Mar Mikhaël is packed with hipsters and beautiful people looking to have a good time. These painted steps brighten up the Christian Armenian neighbourhood there
Mar Mikhaël is also a great place to stop for a coffee or tuck into a meal with an array of restaurants lining its narrow streets. It’s also home to this amazing classical fresco
Whether you want to surround yourself with beautiful people dancing to blaring house music or sip a beer in a cramped bar while listening to The Beatles, there is no need to go to bed early. I enjoyed visits to the uber trendy neighbourhoods of Mar Mikhaël and Hamra where the hipster-filled drinking holes and art inspired cafes, flanking narrow streets, reminded me of my favourite places to get up to mischief in London. Basically Beirut has it all, if you want to sit on a beach and sunbathe the hours a way, you can. If you want to dance and drink until you drop, you can. And if history and the arts is your cup of tea, then there is plenty to enjoy. So visit, eat, drink, be merry – but watch out for the cab drivers. You won’t regret it, you’ll just wish you had visited sooner.