


by Alexandra Talty, When the Hells Angels arrived in Beirut this spring, they showed up at
the Four Seasons, located in the upscale neighborhood of Zaytouna Bay,
whose clean and empty streets are sprinkled with high-end hotels and
swim clubs. The unlikely setting was the site of the Harley-Davidson
Owner’s Group (HOGs) annual general assembly. Given Harley-Davidson’s
appeal to the upper middle class, the Four Seasons was not an unusual
location for a HOGs event, but few expected the presence of the world’s
most notorious motorcycle club.
Marwan Tarraf, the 47-year-old founder of Lebanon’s first Harley
dealership, recognized the outlaws instantly because of their signifying
tattoos and heavy chains. Approaching three “full-time” Angels, whom he
assumed were Germans of Lebanese descent, he asked why they were there.
When Angels expressed interest in opening a chapter in Beirut, he
explained a few things about the country to them.
“It would be like going to Somalia and trying to start an outlaw
group,” Tarraf tells me. “There are militias with 10,000 armed men in
them. The rulers of those militias are basically ruling the country.”
From a spate of trendy repair shops to the plethora of biker bars,
motorcycles are having their moment in Beirut. What began as a few men
in the 1970s and 80s drawn to the abandon of the road and the freedom of
a world outside of politics has now become a subculture in its own
right.