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Khazen

by Aoibheann O’Sullivan

The unit of six UNIFIL French peacekeepers, carrying a stretcher with a colleague strapped to it, turned the corner and saw the menacing lattice of ropes about 50 cm off the ground glinting in the afternoon light. They hardly broke their pace as they yelled instructions to each other, and then leopard-crawled at haste under the web of ropes, dragging their stretcher-bound teammate with them. The crowd watching roared in appreciation. Close on their heels were teams from the Lebanese Armed Forces, UNIFIL Malaysia, Ghana and Republic of Korea contingents. The dust kicked up by the competition caught the evening sun as it no doubt used to during Roman times when chariots entertained the crowds.The archaeological Roman hippodrome in the Lebanese city of Tyre is one of the largest and best preserved hippodrome in the world. The site once seated around 20,000 spectators and hosted dramatic chariot races. Last Sunday, this ancient site was a fitting backdrop for the annual Military Olympiad between UNIFIL and the Lebanese Armed Forces (LAF).

 As teams of Lebanese military personnel and UNIFIL peacekeepers sweated it out in friendly, but gruelling competitions, Brigadier General Liot de Nortbecourt, UNIFIL Chief of Staff, contextualised the event, “The reason we're here today is to support two associations that take care of wounded soldiers, their families and children of martyrs. The first one is a French association based in Paris ‘Terre Fraternité’ and the second association ‘Association of the Martyr Lt Col Sobhi Al Akoury’ is named after the first LAF martyr in Nahr al-Bared battles and it protects and supports the families and children of these Lebanese Army martyrs.” Each association received a donation of US$ 23,000, but not before military personnel had to compete in boot-camp style events. These included “Chronos”, where teams of 10 personnel race to pull a 6,100-kg truck for 150 metres, and the appropriately named “Hades”, where teams of seven each had to do a rugged cross fit relay circuit. 

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Kamal Mouzawak with cook Maria Doueihy in his Beirut restaurant Tawlet.

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Kamal Mouzawak grew up in Jeita, a small town in the mountains north of Beirut, during the Lebanese civil war. One of his earliest memories was when his mother was out of the kitchen and he decided to make a cake. He thought to himself: ‘What is a cake?’ He stirred a slurry of flour, sugar and eggs in an empty sardine tin because he could not find a cake pan and cooked it on top of the stove. “It was a burnt omelette!” he laughed, remembering the experiment over lunch this spring in Beirut. “But what still amazes me is the metamorphosis of ingredients.” Over the last decade, Mouzawak has created a recipe for transforming people’s lives through food. He now presides over a network of markets, restaurants, bed-and-breakfasts and community outreach programmes in Lebanon.

Some projects are non-profit, others for-profit, and through them Mouzawak has developed a model of social entrepreneurship that is as much about empowering people as selling products. His brings together farmers, chefs, NGOs, designers and artisans, connecting people to politicians and business to ethics. One morning, in his main restaurant in Beirut, I watched him conduct three business meetings simultaneously, moving from table to table, discussing photographs for a new cookbook, plans for a new restaurant and giving a quick briefing to a group of European journalists on a tour. His enterprise is called Souk el Tayeb. Souk is Arabic for market and tayeb is a useful word with several meanings, including good, kind, delicious. It signifies acceptance, acknowledgement and thank you all rolled into one. Souk el Tayeb began as a farmers’ market in 2004.

I lived in Beirut when the market first opened on a scratched patch of car park, one of the bald spots in a city destroyed by 15 years of civil war. It sold orange blossom honey from the citrus orchards in the south, thick dark pomegranate molasses made by a grandmother in a mountain village, jars of pickled radishes, cucumbers, peppers; feta cheese preserved in oil with thyme and chillies. The sambousek stuffed with ground lamb and spinach always sold out within the first hour. Fresh fruit from across Lebanon at the Souk el Tayeb farmers’ market in Beirut. Facebook Twitter Pinterest Fresh fruit from across Lebanon at the Souk el Tayeb farmers’ market in Beirut. Photograph: Natalie Naccache for the Observer The market is still one of the great wonders of the Middle East. I walked along the rows of stalls one recent sunny spring Saturday morning, marvelling, wide-eyed and hungry.

Khazen History

Historical Feature:
Churches and Monasteries of the Khazen family